By Victoria Moorhouse
If it seems like peptide serums are popping up everywhere these days, you’re not wrong. The beauty industry is borderline obsessed with peptides, arguably due to the skincare ingredient’s potential for supporting skin health, boosting collagen production, and addressing common signs of ageing.
"There are many different kinds of peptides, all designed for very unique functions," explains Ryan Turner, dermatologist and co-founder of skincare brand TRNR Skin. "Most people look to peptides when they want a product with fine-line-fighting properties. Among other benefits, peptides may help firm skin, smooth fine lines and wrinkles, soothe skin, and brighten uneven skin tone." Despite convincing marketing campaigns, Turner says that more research is needed to fully support their benefits.
However, if you are interested in giving peptides a place in your routine, choosing a serum may be the way to go. “Serums are designed to be targeted treatments, featuring more concentrated actives in a format that absorbs more deeply into the skin than a moisturiser,” continues Turner. "Serums are an especially ideal format for peptides because peptides are very small molecules, so that fast absorption and deeper penetration of a peptide-infused serum can deliver more powerful benefits. That’s not to say you can’t or won’t see results from a moisturiser formulated with peptides—it may just take longer to see results."
What should you look for in a peptide serum?
"Which peptide serum you choose should depend on your skin type, goals, age, budget, and other skin concerns," says Stephens. There are different types of peptides, each offering a specific benefit. For example, some target fine lines and wrinkles, while others offer more hydration." In terms of formulation, Stephens mentions that peptides are best when they're paired with other skincare ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid: "These ingredients help to maximise the benefits of peptides while addressing additional skin concerns like hydration and balancing oil production."Turner recommends looking for a product that's been tested and studied, and formulated with clinically proven ingredients. "Peptides are very buzzy right now, and as a result, there are plenty of products with peptides on the market, but not all are created equally," he notes.
How to add a peptide serum into your routine
According to Turner, peptide serums can be used in both your morning routine and your evening routine—but the other ingredients in the formula should guide you when you work it into your lineup. "Generally, serums are lightweight and are applied first after cleansing to maximise their absorption," he adds.
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