By Marissa Wu
When it comes to skincare ingredients, there’s no shortage of options. From the mainstays like retinol, hyaluronic acid and ceramides to the dubious—salmon sperm, anyone?—there’s always something out there claiming to be the solution to whatever woe you’re facing. One I’ve seen lately making the rounds is collagen, and I started to wonder, what does collagen do for skin? It’s true that it makes up a large part of the human body…but would ingesting it or applying it as a cream actually help my body make more? To find out, I spoke with NYC-based dermatologist Dr. Ryan Turner. Here’s what you need to know before you scoop yourself another serving of collagen powder.
Meet the Expert
Dr. Ryan Turner is the founder of TRNR Skin and a board-certified, New York City-based dermatologist specializing in cosmetic dermatology, general dermatology, surgical dermatology and laser surgery. He is an Assistant Clinical Professor at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. Dr. Turner received his medical degree from Harvard Medical School and completed his dermatology residency at the Harvard Medical School affiliated hospitals.
What Is Collagen?
Collagen comprises 20 to 30 percent of all proteins in living things and is a major component of your skin, bones, ligaments and cartilage. It comprises three amino acid chains, with the majority of your body’s collagen being Type 1. (There are 28 types, with the most common being types 1, 2, 3, 4 and 6.)
“Collagen fibers function like a scaffold, creating the structure and strength for everything from skin, muscle and bones to tendons, ligaments and other connective tissue,” Dr. Turner adds. “With skin specifically, collagen provides your skin with support and resilience—as it deteriorates with age as well as unprotected UV exposure and other bad habits, skin becomes weaker and sags, resulting in laxity, fine lines and wrinkles.”
Does Collagen Really Improve Skin?
As this protein is a major component of the human body, it does have essential functions, including providing the skin with smoothness and elasticity. Per this 2021 review that evaluated the data of over 1,000 participants, researchers found that hydrolyzed collagen specifically could be effective in addressing wrinkles, skin elasticity and hydration. Another review adds, “Many studies have shown that if collagen peptides (and other active compounds) are ingested they will travel throughout the body, including to sites where fibroblasts are present. This stimulates fibroblasts to produce more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, thereby rejuvenating skin and other tissues. This mechanism is key to the successful production of collagen reported in clinical studies following long term supplement use and the consequent reported improvement in skin elasticity and hydration.”
Can You Use Collagen Every Day?
There are plenty of dietary collagen supplements and skincare products on the market that you can incorporate into your daily routine. Topically, collagen can be an effective moisturizer, but isn’t necessarily encouraging your skin to increase production of the protein. Per Cedars Sinai, collagen supplements don’t hurt, but there’s not a ton of evidence as to how helpful they are.
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