The onset of a pimple is bad enough, but even worse than a standard-fare pimple is the dreaded cystic acne, the kind that burrows deep under your skin and is painful to the touch. You can’t press on it, or its fury worsens. You can't even burst and drain it—or, if you try to hunt after it, you'll be living with that scab, mark, and scar for months on end.

But unlike surface-level blemishes, cystic acne outbreaks can be easier to control. And we’re not talking about the crucial daily habits that prevent acne. Rather, you can get one step ahead of cystic acne as soon as you realize there’s one budding beneath your skin. With a simple day-long or overnight assault on that blemish, you can prevent it from reaching full boil. It can be gone in a matter of days (barely impacted the surface texture of your skin, and easily covered by concealer), never to be seen nor heard from again.

In order to get rid of cystic acne at the first sign, follow these three tips, which we got from board-certified NYC dermatologist Dr. Ryan Turner. And remember—don’t try to pop it!

BRUTAL DRYNESS

WHY IT HAPPENS: Frequent use of hand sanitizer and washing with harsh soaps strip away the natural oils that protect the top layer of your skin. But if your hands have always felt de- hydrated, chronic dryness can also be a symptom of eczema, says New York–based derma- tologist Ryan Turner, M.D.

"When humidity is low and the air becomes dry, it can lead to dehydrated skin," echoes Ryan Turner, M.D., dermatologist and founder of Turner Dermatology. "Dehydrated skin lacks water and may feel dull, rough, and tight. Using a humidifier can help by adding moisture to the air. This may help reduce dry or cracked skin especially overnight when skin cell regrowth and repairs are at their peak."

What Is Squalane?

Before we learn about the benefits of this rich emollient, let's discuss how the vowels a and e make a difference in their chemical makeup. "Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene," Turner tells Byrdie. "[It is] a lipid (or fat) that is naturally found in the skin and secreted by the sebaceous (oil) glands. Squalene is not very stable for use in skincare products, so squalane is used for its longer shelf life." The use of this emollient in the beauty industry has long been controversial due to the fact that squalane found in cosmetics, not to be confused with squalene, was sourced from shark liver. However, most companies are now using plant-based forms of squalane in their products. "Squalane can be naturally sourced from plants, for example, olives and sugar cane," says Turner.

“Hair recession can be caused by genetic predisposition, hormonal influences, and aging,” says Turner. “Certain areas of the scalp are affected differently by androgen hormones such as dihydrotestosterone (DHT) leading to hair recession and eventual male pattern hair loss.” If (and when) your body kicks this process into high gear will vary from everyone else’s case. So, if it hasn’t started receding yet, pay close attention to your hairline and act accordingly when it starts to budge. It never hurts to meet with a trichologist or dermatologist in the meantime to understand which of the following steps is good for you and when.

Without regular upkeep, nails can also become weak. Weak nails can have a dull, powdery white or yellow appearance, says Dr. Turner, which of course doesn’t look great, but weak nails also break more easily, which can be painful especially if they break or tear far enough to expose the nail bed. Sometimes weak nails are caused by nutritional deficiencies (something you can ask your dermatologist about), but in many cases, Dr. Turner recommends a clear coat of polish (like OPI Natural Nail Strengthener) which can help keep weakened or brittle nails protected.

“There is still a lot of stigma among men about cosmetic procedures not fitting in with certain concepts of masculinity,” says Dr. Ryan Turner, M.D., P.C. of N.Y.C.- based Turner Dermatology. “However, society is challenging the concept of gender-conforming behavior and these discussions have helped those identifying as male feel more comfortable with cosmetic procedures.”

Do Acne Patches Work?

The short answer is “yes.” According to Dr. Ryan Turner, M.D., P.C. of N.Y.C.-based Turner Dermatology, “the reason that the patches can work so well is that they help draw out inflammation in the form of water [and] serum and this can acutely reduce the size of the acne spot.” They’re also multi-purpose and easy to use. “Patients enjoy the visual aspect of applying something that they can see to give their mind feedback that something is working on the acne,” says Turner. “Acne patches [also] give a physical barrier to stop the user from picking at the acne, which only inflames it.”